
Crawlspaces and Moisture
By
Frank G. Ross
Crawlspaces can be dark, dank, dirty
and a home to spiders (of which I am not fond). It is an
unfortunate fact that crawlspaces are prone to moisture problems.
Crawlspaces
with dirt floors are tremendous sources of moisture. The surface
might appear dry but most often moist earth isn't too far below.
Moisture in a crawlspace affects not only the flooring right above
it but can affect the entire house.
Traditionally, the most common method of dealing with moisture in
crawlspaces — and the one longest endorsed by codes — has been to
ventilate them. However,
non-vented crawlspaces are becoming more common.
A
non-vented crawlspace is
usually
contained by a solid concrete or masonry foundation wall that
extends down to footings just below the frost line,
the depth to which the
ground freezes during the winter. It would also need to have a
moisture barrier on the floor and be properly sealed. Insulation on
the walls would be another feature of a conditioned crawlspace.
Research and experience has shown that non-vented, conditioned crawl
spaces provide better moisture control than vented crawl spaces and
behave similarly to houses constructed with basements. In our area
of Utah, many times a full basement makes more sense than a
non-vented crawlspace. Talk with your home improvement specialist
or builder to see what is best for your situation. All systems
should be professionally installed and inspected by local code
enforcement.
Vented crawlspaces are by far more prevalent than non-vented types.
A number of vents (the exact number is spelled out in the
building code) provide adequate cross ventilation, the sub floor of
the home is insulated along with the pipes in the crawlspace to
prevent freezing, and there may be a vapor barrier on the ground.
Ideally the vents get closed in the winter time. A small heater or
heat tape is used to help keep the pipes from freezing in addition
to the insulation on the pipes.
Few builders take ALL the precautions necessary for keeping water
out of a crawlspace. Moisture in the crawlspace provides the
perfect environment for mold growth and other moisture problems such
as structural damage from dry rot, potential indoor air quality
problems, as well as termites or other pests attracted to the
presence of moisture.
Natural air flow in a house is from bottom to top. Air from the
crawlspace will naturally flow through gaps in the flooring, etc. to
the living space above. This phenomenon is called the chimney
effect. It’s a good reason to keep an eye on the condition of the
crawlspace, regularly inspecting it and noting any situations
requiring attention.
Conscientious homeowners will also take measures to keep moisture
out of the crawlspace. Following are some suggestions, most of
which apply to vented crawlspaces. The first two will solve about
95% of water problems at the foundation.
Surface water drains
away from the foundation.
All surface water should be directed away from the home. A swale may
be necessary if your home is built on a slope. The foundation can
have significant structural damage caused by water along the
foundation that freezes in the winter. Be careful when watering
lawns and landscaping. Don’t allow water to hit the house.
Rain gutters and
downspouts.
Either provide working gutters and downspouts, or install generous
eave overhangs coupled with positive surface drainage. The
downspouts need to shed water away from the home at least 6 feet or
more or to underground pipes that lead away from the home.
Vapor barrier.
Install a full plastic membrane or a concrete slab on every
crawlspace floor. The plastic membrane should be 6 mil thick poly,
overlapped and sealed around columns and the walls. This will help
to keep the ground moisture vapors from rising up into your framing.
Most homeowners will add gravel on the top to help prevent damage.
This is the number one preventive measure that in most cases is much
more useful than ventilation.
Adequate ventilation.
Don’t forget to open vents that were closed for the winter. A
crawlspace needs a minimum of 1 square foot of ventilation for every
150 square feet of crawlspace floor. Shrubs and other plantings;
low decks and other types of construction above or against vents can
block the vents making them useless.
Sump pump.
When ground water is the source of moisture, it may be necessary to
create a drain system with a sump, equipped with an automatically
controlled pump to remove water from the crawlspace.
If
you have a sump pump installed, make sure it is at the lowest point
in the crawlspace and all areas easily drain to it. The pump should
be inspected regularly. Nothing can take the place of a properly
installed perimeter foundation drainage system by the builder but a
sump pump is the next best thing. The pump should be in a plastic
cylinder in the ground and eject water outside, away from the
building and not into the septic or sewer system.
Added moisture.
Do not locate vent fan exhausts, dryer exhausts or condensate drains
in the crawlspace.
Avoid air leaks.
Seal and
insulate heating/air conditioning ductwork in vented crawlspaces to
minimize energy losses and prevent leaks in the system’s return
ducts from distributing crawlspace air into the house.
Storage.
Avoid using the
crawlspace for storage. Stored items may be damaged by moisture.
Also organic materials may make a good food source for mold, mildew
or pests.
Please remember that a crawlspace is an integral part of your home
and should be kept neat, clean and easily accessible. Inspect it
often looking for signs of moisture or mildew and consult a
professional for any repairs. Regular maintenance can save many a
homeowner a costly and inconvenient repair.
Frank Ross is a Certified Utah Home Inspector for Pillar to Post
Professional Home Inspection and a full member of the National
Association of Certified Home Inspectors and a member in good
standing with the Utah Better Business Bureau. Readers may contact
Mr. Ross at (435) 867-6400 or
frank.ross@pillartopost.com
or
www.pillarposthomeinspection.com